I found my 1280 on Craigslist a couple years ago for $30. Quite a bargain considering the original price was around $500. (Not to blow smoke, but Craigslist is an excellent place to find a used printer. Sometimes people get printers as part of a computer package for "free" and they sell the printer cheaply. This is a great place to get a printer for not a lot of dough to experiment with.) I purchased a few spongeless refillable cartridges, a chip resetter and the MISPRO inkset from MIS. (Due to an Epson lawsuit, MIS, and other US companies, no longer sell spongeless refillable cartridges. I have been able to buy these kinds of cartridges off of Ebay.) I eventually dedicated the 1280 to black & white printing and switched to the ultra tone (UT-FSN) black & white inkset.
One thing that needs to be noted is that Epson strongly discourages the use of non-Epson inks in their printers. I have not read the fine print but I would wager that by using 3rd party inks, I am voiding some kind of warranty. This should be taken into consideration if you plan on purchasing a new printer that has a warranty or an expensive printer where the cost due to possible damage may outweight the cost savings of using 3rd party inks.
One of the first things I noticed were the head clogs. It generally took me a couple head cleanings every printing session to get a good nozzle check print. Printing sessions were infrequent which didn't help. Also, my computer is upstairs in the house and during the summer months it can get pretty hot during the day. While I haven't done any experiments, I have a feeling that the high temperatures can dry out the print head and lead to clogs. Another theory is that the Epson inks are dye based with smaller particles and the pigments based ink particles are larger and can clog the head. Based on the information on the MIS website, the size of the pigment particles is not an issue with the 1280.
The UT-FSN inkset is a carbon based pigment set that has four shades of black to it. The "color" of inks are black (K), cyan (C), magenta (M) and yellow (Y). The black can either be the "photo black" which can be used on glossy papers or the "eboni" which is recommended for matte papers. I chose to use the eboni and print on matte paper. It took me a few tries to find a matte paper that I liked. One lesson learned is to buy sample packs of paper if they are available. This helps reduce costs if you end up not liking the paper for some reason (I have given away lots of paper and trashed others that I would consider fire starter.)
The refillable cartridges have small plugs that are removed to fill the chambers. This is best done with a syringe and blunt needle. I arranged the inkset in the recommended order per the MIS website. The order of the inks is CMCMY. Looking at the image to the left, you can see the chips on each cartridge. On these particular cartridges, the whole yellow piece slides off making it easier to replace the chips if you need to. Cartridge design from other suppliers may vary.
Looking left to right on the T009 cartridge, the color order is cyan, light cyan, magenta, light magenta and yellow. The cartridge is filled with the "cyan" ink in the cyan and magenta positions of the cartridge. The light cyan and light magenta positions are filled with the "magenta" ink and the yellow position is filled with the "yellow" ink. (Again, CMCMY positions.) I filled the T007 cartridge (smaller cart) with eboni. This gives the four shades of black to work with. I made a 51-step wedge to linearize my prints. (More on how to create your own step wedge in another post.) I use a Datacolor Printfix Pro to read the patches and QTR to create an ICC profile. My favorite paper with this combination was Inkpress Rag Warm Tone 300. This is a cotton rag paper, no brighteners, 300 gsm, 15 mil paper. It is a very heavy paper. There isn't much flaking but I have had a few prints with white spots. I use a drafters brush to wipe away any flakes before loading the printer. In letter size, it needs a little "help" to get it to feed into the printer. (The 1280 has a lever to adjust platen for thicker papers.) The combination of the neutral ink and the warm paper gave a slightly warm print that was lovely.
The reason I chose a matte paper was due to part of the ejection system of the 1280. There are small gear-like wheels that grab the paper and push the print out when printing is done. If you look closely at the surface of the print, you'll see marks on the surface of the print - especially glossy prints. There are methods (here and here) for removing the pizza wheels, but I never tried them. Honestly, I found that the matte paper looks very nice behind glass when framed. You don't have to deal with the reflection off of the print and the glass which can be annoying if you're lighting on the frame is not right. As well, a couple years ago, the dmax of matte papers was much darker than that of the glossy papers. There were no fancy fiber-based glossy papers available, only resin-based glossy.
At times, the 1280 truly frustrated me with head clogging and banding in the prints. At other times, the 1280 with the UT-FSN inkset made awesome prints. I have only had one 1280. I've read accounts of people having no clog problems and other's having worse experiences than myself. I'm currently experimenting with an Epson R220 and an ancient Epson Sylus Photo 2000P. With my preliminary results so far, I'm wishing for another 1280 and UT-FSN inkset.
Last weekend, I took my 1280 to the electronics recycler. I'm regretting that decision. I wish I would have kept the printer and tried to fix it myself. I had nothing to lose as the printer is now in some junk heap. It could have been no worse off after my attempts to repair and could have ended up functioning well again. Who knows?
I don't have any affiliation with any of the above manufacturers and/or products. This really is a "journey" and as there are no 1st party manufacturers of a dedicated black & white inkjet printer, those of us who want one have to turn to 3rd party solutions.
Online resources listed in this post:
www.craigslist.org - online classified ads.
www.inksupply.com - suppliers of bulk ink and other inkjet supplies.
www.inkpresspaper.com - Inkjet paper manufacturer of fairly inexpensive papers.
www.datacolor.com - Manufacturer of color management equipment.
www.epson.com - Manufacturer of inkjet printers.
www.ebay.com - online auction - source of refillable inkjet cartridges.
3 comments:
A while ago, I got a 1290 (EMEA version of the 1280, functionally identical as far as I know) that was completely clogged and heading to recyclers. I finally managed to bring it back to life with cleaning fluid from fixyourownprinter.com. However, clogs were still a constant problem even using original Epson ink.
I'm planning to get a new A3+ printer for color some time soonish, so I decided to try MIS UT2 cartridges in the 1290. Results are very good, but so far clogging has been even worse than with Epson inks. So the ink type is likely to be one factor, but this printer just seems hopelessly cloggy on its own right.
I had an A4 Epson, the R800, before and that was no paragon of reliability either. My next purchase is unlikely to be from Epson. I can feel my wallet getting lighter with every head cleaning..
For the record, I spent most of the last weekend messing with the 1280. I had been using plain paper for test patterns and stuff, and it seems that plain paper + platen gap set to 0 = cloggage city (in retrospect, I think this happened with Epson inks too but to a lesser degree). I guess that since plain paper tends to curl when it gets ink, it then hits the print head and leaves crap behind. Printing only on EnhMatte prevented the problem. I'll have to pick up some cheapo paper, EnhMatte is a bit pricey for nozzle tests.
Unfortunately, next problem is microbanding. Setting platen gap to 0 fixes most of it at 1440dpi, at 2880dpi it disappears but that has some posterization problems..
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